As soon as it's tilted by 0.0001°, it's not useful any more. Quick menu.Right-clicking a settin… First, switch to the Expert mode, ironing for individual models is only enabled in this mode. Structural / weight bearing prints will want more like 5 walls and 30-100% infill, but that uses a lot of time and filament. If it's random, maybe heat creep, if it's reproductible, it's because there are a lack of plastic: filament diameter? If anyone has compiled versions please share them. I've never tried Cura Ironing with PETG to see if it works better. Note that I run both wham bam systems PEX sheets, and TH3D sheets on both printers, and magnetic build plates have basically changed my printing life. "Spacing: 0.3 - Speed: 37.5" is nice for me with that test. code : https://github.com/supermerill/Slic3r/tree/smooth_top_infill, Have an error when exporting gcode from the joined file. I get similar smooth top layer finishes just by decreasing the top layer speed down to 5-15 mm/s for the print. What's the best surface to print PETG on? Neosanding 2.0: I agree. Hatchbox Filament: A 6 Minute Video on everything you need to know for perfect top layers and ironing with your 3d slicer. While I haven't dialed in my Fillamentum PLA perfectly yet, I noticed that the ironing feature gave some surface areas very visible scars with the default settings (I believe it was 15% flow rate, .1mm spacing). I think the real hurdle to smooth top layers is the path planner now, to be honest; my setup got better since I posted the image in #65, so in Colorfabb's economy PLA it looks like this now (phone slightly misplaced focus and slight issues with linear advance notwithstanding, M3 nut for scale): (and yes, it's of rather limited use, since most things don't have flat tops) Should i have to do the second one also over the perimeters? yes, auto bed levelers help a lot, and I wouldn’t run any of my printers without one, but you need to have a mechanically flat bed before you start. USPS vs ShipCover Insurance - Which Should I Use? Then no supermerill#228 Ironing Perfection with Cura. All Rights Reserved.Privacy Policy & Terms of Service • Amazon Associates Disclosure. In that case, I'll compile from source or check out @foreachthing's binary in order to try out the ironing feature. I have printed a fair amount with this turned on and set at 8mm/s for all speeds, but did not notice a large difference in the finished prints. Thank you. privacy statement. @supermerill ironing works flawlessly for me with PLA, but has the issues like I see in your picture with PETG. I would like to try it out now so is building it from source for Win64 the only way? I'd update but that would break a number of legacy software versions I depend on. Simply start typing to filter both already visible and hidden settings. One quirk: when selecting top-most surface only for ironing, only one surface from multiple surfaces at the same height are ironed. This allows for a smoother finish. Thanks for any support! Amazon Affiliate Disclosure. amzn_assoc_height = "610"; I already said on prusa forum a comment about it: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/improvements-f14/need-some-testers-for-slic3rpe-neosanding-t13953.html#p63836, @rongith One strange thing: it irons the whole layer if any part of it is the top layer. Ironing settings. If you don’t see a setting that is listed here in your Cura, go to the Settings Menu and click “Settings Visibility” then search for it. (Also, your link is expired). Then select Print settings - Infill - Ironing - Enable Ironing. My modifications are only about UI. I leave the x and Z acceleration where they are. amzn_assoc_link_id = "JDYZY2EPO2MGU7HZ"; If you want even thicker layer heights, step up to a 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzle first. Thanks. Usually keep it around 0.8 to 1 mm total top/bottom thickness, but if you have a large unsupported area that may not print well at first, I would increase that up to around 1.6mm thickness. depends on the model and other options. I followed the guide, https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/blob/master/doc/How%20to%20build%20-%20Mac%20OS.md, but I don't know what to do after that. It can be useful for printing parts that need to fit together tightly, or have things like screw holes. Feedback from rongiths build for Windows - it seems to work fine. Thank you for the list of Cura settings for CR-10. Cura is a brilliant means to inspire and expand your own creativity particularly once you have dived into its expansive hidden options. It is possible increasing this can save some print time, though increasing it too much may mean your slicer gives innacurate print times. I think while it seems to work, it's more a nice to have feature than something realy important because it's only aplicable to horizontal top surfaces. But you can see the two very nice flat surfaces on the top and middle of the part. Printing temp: 260°C. Thicker initial layer height helps bed adhesion. (Examples: 30mm/s print speed: 205 C print temp; 50mm/s print speed: 213 C print temp.). Has a large impact on overall print time and quality. Usually, this setting is high implying a minimum jerk. Tooltip.Shows useful setting information when hovering the mouse over a setting 5. But I don't like it either on parts with fillet as then top infill is apparent on upper part of it making the fillet rough. Ender 3 (Pro/V2) Cura Settings: The Best Ender 3 Cura Profile. Please consider reading at least some comments from the thread you are replying to: #458 (comment), #458 (comment). Compiling from source is the only option until then. You could increase slightly to 101% to help with bed adhesion, but this shouldn’t be necessary with a well leveled bed. I typically run a .6 mm nozzle on my S4. Slicer settings do impact the quality of your print so it’s important to have the right software and settings to get you the best quality print possible. @Rob4226 Thank you for the compliments. I've been using Cura or the last few years until recently bc I thought it would be like Slic3r's UI which I just straight up don't like. Jetzt ist die Funktion in den Druckeinstellungen unter der Form zu finden. Ultimaker Cura is an excellent slicing software to get the best out of your 3D printers and make the greatest models it possibly can, but it can do so much more! I think this is the issue. If I may hijack this topic, I have compiled PrusaSlicer from source today (87c9163) and gave the ironing a try as it is the no. @bubnikv What are your thoughts on this? However when looking at the slice preview, it tends to create a lot of layers in mid air, which can lead to failed prints and is something to avoid usually. If so, look at the preview tab in Cura closely and compare “Everywhere” vs. “Nowhere” and decide what looks the best. Big impact on the time a print takes, but increasing can cause sloppier looking prints and potential print failures, and faster speeds caused increase noise (if you are concerned about that.) 1. ColorFabb XT (Copolyester, PET like). tr3nD maker is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Thank you, this is very helpful. Heat creep: increase the distribution from 10% to 15-20%, and/or enlarge the width a bit. @Richard Lasjunies – the creality documentations are non existent :(. (maybe I did not find) The first time with extrusion and the second time with just a little bit of extrusion (default is 10%) at 90 degrees to the first one. The best are "Spacing: 0.2 - Speed: 15" and "Spacing: 0.3 - Speed: 37.5". A couple of comment on your post from someone who runs an S4 and an S5. If you have the Anycubic I3 Mega, just type everything in, as it is below … On the photo (when clicked): Eh, too much hassle. See it here in action: amzn_assoc_tracking_id = "ordethebookat-20"; It is a lot. Keep up the really great work! Setting up Cura version 4.3 for Clay 3D Printing ... Horizontal Expansion and enable Ironing I all switch off. Since it only affects 1 or 2 layers, it won’t have a big impact on print time. This is why you need to explore the settings on your own and master them. @valentt , I actually do not want the top surface to be "polished", as I seek to avoid any friction effects approaching those associated with, for example, the wringing of gauge blocks - so I don't want the valleys between adjacent lines of extrusion to be filled. Unfortunately I see a gaping problem with the monotonous infill implementation that negates much of the benefit - middle fill layers are still standard rectilinear and the ridges will often show through a single layer. That layer time drop down to 200min with 0.2mm and 96min without ironing. I usually leave this setting at 0 and just add more Top Layers if I think it is needed. I prefer to have the perimeters without ironing. I mention "all perimeters" due to other requests regarding perimeters in this issue - please ensure that ironing all perimeters remains possible. 03033-r06d - I3D-Conduit.zip #4425. The basic settings menu in an older version of Cura … In theory this could save print time and filament without sacrificing much strength. Hmmm... depends. It would be nice to have control over the speed (and maybe extrusion rate?) The print was very early a fail. I am wondering if an ironing pass without any extrusion is possible, or what strategies you would recommend to avoid creating scars during the ironing process. I've filed a new issue for this as an enhancement request: Initial Layer . You could try reducing the speed to reduce printing noise and possibly prevent some wobbling / ghosting, but it may not have a big impact. <. That mass matters and you’re moving a lot of it. Attempting to slice with 0% flow gives an error Invalid flow height supplied to new_from_spacing(), so this does not seem possible at the moment. Your email address will not be published. You can try printing retraction / stringing test prints from thingiverse to see what works best for your printer and filament. But I do want to ensure that the part has consistent thickness and has no protrusions. amzn_assoc_width = "auto"; Unfortunately, when there's a color change, the ironing for that layer gets interrupted where there's going to be more material. I’d like to put in another vote for this, neosanding is the only reason I still go back to Cura sometimes. Edit: Derp. If you purchase something through a link, this site may earn a small share of the sale. The print may end up with a line of imperfections at the Z seam, but then you can easily sand that area. This is the temperature the nozzle will heat up to before printing starts. My products have mostly 3d printed mechanics, this will give me a lot more freedom when designing them! If it is partially clogged, the printing failed. Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community. I haven’t found the need to alter this from 0. You can sometimes set this about 5 degrees C higher than your printing temp in order to increase layer adhesion, but its not usually necessary. It’s strange these recommended values are not provided by CREALITY. Before ironing, I was complaining that top surfaces was not nice compared to the perimeters. However in comparing sliced results with this at 0 or 1 I usually don’t see much difference. I got it working and had a play around. https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/6rkzm7/top_surfaces_using_cura_27s_ironing_feature/, The subthread which speaks about this is here (it is called there neosanding): | ________ | Left ____________________ | Right_____________________ | Grid can be helpful for more reliable overhang support since it offers a predictable grid for top layers to lay on. 1 feature I was missing when I transitioned from Cura. Let's take a look at Cura's extrusion multiplier, which is called flow rate. Overview How it was Done. After start CURA (my version is: 3.5.1) you must configure a new printer, in our case is the ENDER 3, for do this follow the steps below.. Now I’ve a base of work, I can adapt these values to understand better the impact on the quality. This allows for good layer adhesion assuming your other settings are correct and the bed is leveled correctly. Thanks for this! Just bought a CR 10 V2 … it was a big mess. At first it seems like if you increase spacing you have to increase speed too. https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/6r35eq/cura_27_beta_is_here/, Cura's 2.7 release notes: Also, Doug - yeah not sure what you're talking about. filament, or lighting your print from the inside, Gyroid can help the inside look more organic. First off your right, a flat, level bed is absolutely critical you cannot get any decent print without a flat bed. Already on GitHub? If you see a mistake or want to make a suggestion please leave a comment below. ***> wrote: Generally leave this at lines except for in a few specific cases where you might be printing a circular object and then Concentric could be better. Enable Ironing : Together with the ironing, we invite you to activate the option of ironing only the highest layer. I was expecting all surfaces at that height to be ironed. & How to Clean a Clogged Printhead, Team Fortress 2 Crafting Blueprints - How to create hats, weapons, and more in TF2. Again dependent on the filament brand you are using. For PLA filament printing, 60 C is the preferred temp for the bed. If you want faster print times beyond about 40-50mm/s I would first try a bigger nozzle which can give you thicker and therefore fewer walls (shells), use less infill like 5% or 10% instead of 20%, etc. I remain baffled. Leaving it turned off is best when in doubt. Does Arctic Silver Thermal Paste Expire / Go Bad? I still need to experiment with this setting more. I can't even make a proper picture which shows the differene. Any consistently aligned z scaring (eg tiny tails from z lift) of even 1 micron, multiplied over 100's of stacked parts creates a stack which is higher on one side than the other (I get, for example, a side-to-side height difference of ~5mm with 300 stacked parts). You could experiment with going up to about 80mm/s if speed is extremely important, but a more reasonable 50mm/s is recommended. In few words, the nozzle travels the top surfaces (pre)heated but without extruding. If in doubt 45mm/s is a good starting point. I tried to print a full bed part with ironing selected (46h print - 730g) but my filament was not good for bridging. If I see correctly, @foreachthing was kind enough to share a binary. Also, the same stands for (perhaps) some temperature variation (few degrees above / below). On Mon, Aug 14, 2017 at 12:01 AM, Quintox303 ***@***. Your email address will not be published. Printing with the recommended Cura settings is perfectly acceptable, but we can do better. Then, under Machine Settings, you have to fill in the properties of your printer. Example, Hilbert Curve for top layers, Rectilinear for bottom. You could set this to 1, but it would rarely save much time, so I recommend leaving it at 2 to ensure better adhesion. This ironing allows for a great top surface quality on 3D prints with flat sections. However in some cases I’ve found it can cause problems with filament clogging and jams, so I would leave it off unless you know for sure that you really need a smoothed top layer. Ultimaker Cura is free, easy-to-use 3D printing software trusted by millions of users. I have always left this off. I'm pretty sure Cura's will do it for any 'top' layer/area (IE, a space that doesn't get built upon on the next layer/layers). If you want to turn on ironing just for a selected model, you have to be in expert mode. I've been trying out the ironing feature. ***> wrote: On Mon, Sep 25, 2017 at 9:02 AM, m-Th ***@***. Neosanding 2.0: Make sure to publish this ratio for the user – surely it depends on filament used and situation („more” or „less” neosanding). Printing temperature is dependent on your filament. Right-click on a model and select Add settings - Ironing from the context menu. separate extrusion width for the top layer already exists and has been there for a long time, it's at print settings -> advanced -> top solid infill and it does give you that smooth look with certain filaments and speeds. Non-native speaker ;) Intended meaning: We already had that topic some time ago. You can decide if you want all of these “blobs” or “Z seams” to appear at the same point, or at random locations. Lower temperatures can clog easier, but might do better on overhangs. Btw, I can't believe how nice PrusaSlicer looks now and how well it works. I also find that I can run speeds upwards of 100 mm/s for anything but the highest quality of model. You can set this 1-5 degrees lower than your printing temperature in order to prevent some filament oozing out during the travel moves at the very beginning of the print. The right temperature selection makes ironing easier, quicker and gives a more professional result. to your account, Slic3r Prusa Edition I hope to see it in the base code soon. @thierryzoller A resin printer would not be suitable: I use MMU2S with two contrasting colours of PLA (one for the main body of the part, one for part numbering on the 1st layer), and also TPU along certain edge regions to resist wear (but only on the middle layers, not top or bottom, so sandwiched by PLA). There's a couple of Cura settings that can help, that I know of: In the 'Travel' section, change "Combing Mode" to "not in skin". Missed that the deps directory is an independent project and can wrangle them easily. You can print stringing / tower test prints to see what is best. Damn I want to try this so badly. A thin decorative vase can be use thin walls like 0.8mm, but may break easily when dropped or squeezed. Having set up the machines, jerk and acceleration are critically important on larger printers and larger prints, especially in y-axis. Perfect 3D Prints by using Ironing Setting in Cura. You can often go down to 10% if you want to speed up the print or save filament. For a good starting point, be sure to select the correct brand of filament in Cura. amzn_assoc_default_search_category = ""; If you have any suggestions for using this feature – please let me know more in the comments below. If you are using semi-transparent (natural etc.) You are receiving this because you were mentioned. Unfortunately as my filament sensor is down now, there were no material to finish the small part, where the sanding paper is attached. Droid X HDMI Out – Taking full advantage for Netflix, Hulu Plus, Blockbuster & More. This is how far the filament is pulled back each time. Last modified July 5, 2017. It's a textured surface.. Printing failed with ironing. Now, with the defaults, it is too nice compared to the perimeters. But I think I won't use them. In this video I explore some of the PETG print settings for Cura including printing on a Bowden and Direct Drive, speed, retraction, support, and much more. You can set to 0% in some rare cases where you have thick enough walls and also don’t have any top layers that would be unsupported (take a look at the Preview window after slicing and see if the top layers of your print would be hanging in midair.). IE, if I was printing a ziggurat, all the flat, ceiling-facing surfaces would be ironed, not just the very top of the model. Now is a good time to save your new custom Profile. If I have some time in the next few weeks I may take a look at implementing this functionality and creating a PR. This is how fast the printer moves when not actively laying down plastic. Thank you so much! . The idea is that it creates a more dense infill pattern near the outer walls of your print. You signed in with another tab or window. Concentric can end up being weak and could cause a print to fail or look sloppy except in specific situations. Any advice about that would be very much welcome. Scroll down to click Creality3D. A poor initial layer can lead to further problems (Source: MatterHackers) Ensuring your first layer sticks to the print bed effectively is paramount to good print quality. So in my use case, it would seem that I need 0% flow, and ironing over all perimeters. Yes, it's not easy to find. I have since discovered that the CR-10 has a default “cold extrude prevent” command set at 170 degrees. @93.5, I can notice some small defects that can perhaps lead to some unreliability. Maybe you can implement the Neosanding 2.0 in Slic3r just by reducing the top infill extrusion width 4x? After seeing the livestream I'm pretty excited to try this but I'll have to wait until there's a Linux image.
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